The bluest water–everywhere.

Jan. 7, 2024, Taupo, New Zealand (North Island)

Epic day today! I went out early to walk a mile to the nearest market get eggs and bread since we’ve got a tiny kitchen and I could cook for maybe the only time on the trip. It was cool, 56 degrees, which felt nice. En route (walking along the lake) I came across an outdoor food and crafts market getting set up. Despite having no room in my suitcase I bought a small owl sculpture made of scrap metal and a painting of birds on a delicate piece of thin porcelain that is probably the worst thing possible to buy given all jostling of the upcoming travel – but it was the perfect gift for my mom. (Note from future me: It survived.)

I also got fresh homemade cinnamon buns from a food truck–right out of the pan. The small supermarket, a few blocks away, looked depressingly like a gas station market from the outside but was well-stocked and I got eggs and snacks.

Lake Taupo, Taupo volcano in the distance. It’s active.

I took a quick dip in our hot tub before breakfast. It was the perfect temperature and I gather it’s hot springs water and not chlorinated, as it was a cement pool with no complicated plumbing. The fully-enclosed outdoor shed isn’t the nicest place to spend time. Concrete block walls and plastic ceiling…I wish they’d left the roof open to the sky, especially for stargazing.

First adventure was getting a cab to Wairakei hot springs. Though this is a decent-sized town there are few cabs and according to the woman that picked us up from the bus stop, only three Uber drivers. We got a recommendation from the hotel owner, called a taxi, and waited 20 minutes. Eh, it’s all good sitting outside staring at the lake. We are in full vacation mode and in no big hurry.

The hot springs were only a few miles out of town, right next to a geothermal power plant (just like the Blue Lagoon in Iceland). While the small, milky-blue pools surrounded by nature were enjoyable, they didn’t live up to the hype. The hype being the one photo I saw in my guide book.

In real life it was like floating around in a milky swimming pool with not enough shade and many opportunities to break a toe. The four pools, each warmer than the next, had multiple entry points with slippery cement stairs descending into the water, but you couldn’t see the stairs (which ranged in width from one to three feet and were different heights) because the water was milky. Everyone was suffering and guests were yelling out warnings to their friends. “No, no, there’s one more – you aren’t all the way down yet.” I began to walk in a sideways shuffle to protect my toes. The stairs were everywhere.

After while it wasn’t that relaxing to sit in a hot pool in the hot sun in the middle of the day with nothing much to look at except other tourists so we agreed to move on.

In the changing room, a princess was taking her sweet time in THE ONLY SHOWER while a polite woman and I waited. Eventually I yelled to the person, “Is there only one shower in there?” The flustered woman/princess replied, “I’m just rinsing my hair. I didn’t realize anyone was waiting.” Really? It’s a freaking hot springs with 100 people and this is the only shower. Sigh. Shame on the venue for only one shower.

By some miracle we got an Uber from the hot springs to Huka Falls in under 15 minutes. The falls are more of a cascade or rapids: it’s a narrowing of a river that creates a beautiful blue tangle of water.

The bridge over the river was both a boon and an eyesore, as yes it allowed me to take nice photos but also ruined the natural feeling.

We wandered down a path to look for views of the river before the falls and I discovered the trail we were on led back to town–a mere 49-minute walk along the river. R. doesn’t love hiking but this seemed totally doable.

The walk was beautiful and amazing and one of the highlights of the trip. I was beside myself with happiness, though I did get tired and hot and we ran out of water. I was IN New Zealand. All the way in! Unusual trees and foliage. Exotic birds. Tiny waterfalls. No insects. The trail was near the Waikato river but rose and fell, alternating between tall trees and ferns and tantalizing river views. R was not happy when it turned out the hike wasn’t 49 minutes but more like 100, but he was a good sport and acknowledged that it was worth it.

We exited the trail as soon as we could at Otumkeke thermal park, closest place to a road, and called an Uber back to town. We had a very late lunch at a really good Indian Nepalese place. Not because we were starving. It was good. We had lamb momos because, New Zealand.

We walked the mile back to the motel despite being tired because it was very beautiful walking along the lake and the lakeshore was full of happy people laughing and swimming and doing summer things.

We relaxed on the front porch of our hotel room (aka the walkway in front of the parking lot) and watched the sun set. It was even more amazing tonight, and I ran across the dangerous road to get lakeside photos. Such a great day and a great night.